Day 60: CouchSurfing the Calanque

Traveling for two months has changed me more than I dare to describe; a full sensory experience nourishing every part of my body. As the initial bedazzlement of Europe wears off, I have to push myself to see new and exciting things. Hiking the Calanques in Marseille is an experience that I will remember forever.

My time in Marseille had been plagued by overcast skies so I wasn't optimistic about exploring the Calanque. A couple people responded to the event I set up on CouchSurfing. A local who couldn't come recommended his favorite trail, the meeting time was set, and the CS Calanque trip was GO!

The morning of I was happily surprised by blue skies. I was so late getting to the bus stop that I thought I would miss the group. Fortunately everyone else was also late and we hopped on bus 21 to Luminy, Calanque bound!

Before Natasha asked me if I had been to the Calanque, I hadn't heard of them before. I soon learned that the Calanques are a series of inlet cliffs that were cut into the limestone by glaciers. They are home to some of the most unique rock structures I have seen. The combination of magnificent cliffs with the blue Mediterranean is astounding. Along the French Riviera, especially near Marseille, is one of the only places in the world where they exist.

That morning four intrepid adventurers set out to explore the Calanques. There were two dudes who were my age, enrolled in the Erasmus program, getting their masters in photonics. There was also a friendly woman from Normandy.

The trail leading to the sea side... Mmm fresh air!

We got off the bus and headed towards the Calanque. There was about a 30 minute walk to get to the seaside where the Calanques could be experienced in their full majesty. The sun was warm and bright. The wind was blowing so hard that it was unnerving while standing on the edge of a cliff.

Vacy on the left and Ivan on the right.

A quaint harbor nestled in between the cliffs.

The Calanque was unlike any landscape I've seen before.

Trekking through valleys with mountains towering above and the rolling Mediterranean below was exhilarating. Lots of other people were out enjoying the day also. We were glad to have people around to take pictures of us.

The intrepid adventurers!

A great big mountain of solid rock.

Hiking was easy going – at first. I walked slowly because I was so busy taking pictures and trying to absorb the environment. It's not easy to hike and look around at the same time! The paths were well made and mostly had a rock base. I was happy to put my boots to the test. Both my boots and I were tested!

There's the trail, can't you see it?

Lots of beautiful plants. Rosemary was growing all over.

We would be doing some of this later.

Headed towards the big rock in the distance.

After hiking for about an hour the trail we were on took a steep turn up one of the cliffs. The base of the cliff was full of broken pieces of white rock. Climbing was difficult because of the extreme incline and the loose rock. Catherine decided that it was too steep for her so she hunkered down and read a book while the three of us scaled the mountain. The intrepid adventurers forged on!

This hill was the most difficult climb.

Catherine waiting patiently with her book.

Once we got to the top, I was behind Ivan and his friend when I heard him laugh and exclaim "Ohhhh, I'm going there!" He clambered over the hill he was on and disappeared over the edge. Terribly curious, I ran up to where he was standing to see him making his way up this treacherous spire that stood proudly apart from the cliff. Of course I followed. Climbing down from where we were was scary enough but finding solid footholds on crumbling limestone with a 200m drop on both sides is exciting. Remember the wind? Standing on top was a moment I'll never forget (and I'm sure my parents won't either).

At the top of the hill...

Ivan on top of his favorite rock.

Exhilarating to say the least!

We continued on towards a huge rock formation. On the horizon. It had been teasing us ever since we entered the park. "Come on, climb me!" When we got there we looked and looked but we couldn't find a route to the top. Ivan and I climbed two places where that looked like they might lead to the top. I rarely do any rock climbing so this was pretty scary, but we made it to the top of a piece of rock next to the larger rock. It looked like it was possible to get to the top, but not without risking serious injury. Neither of us were prepared to bust our brains so we called it and headed down. When we got down we met a group that told us there used to be a chain up there where you could pull yourself on top. Without the chain? No thanks.

We continued towards the big rock.

When we got there we couldn't find a way up.

So we climbed this wall...

But were too scared to go any higher.

What an outstanding day!

We reunited with Catherine feeling slightly guilty. I hope her book blew her mind, because the Calanques blew mine. Going home on the bus we all whined about how sore we were. Getting back to Natasha's apartment and eating borscht was all I wanted to do. What an amazing day.

Au revoir!

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Day 59: Marseille Smells

I felt negatively about Marseille even before I arrived. A number of people told me that it wasn't safe. Though, fresh out of Brooklyn, I wasn't especially worried. My optimism soon ended. While I was in Nice, a fellow CouchSurfer I met just came from Marseille; he told me what happened to him. Three guys pushed him to the ground, strangled him, and stole his backpack. His story was shocking, but I was still wanted to see Marseille.

When I got to Marseille, after 15 minutes of walking around I was ready to leave. Bottles, wrappers, and other trash littered the streets. Everything was dirty, the people were weird, and it smelled foul. Looking at Marseille out my host's 11th story window, I joked "It's the Brooklyn of France!" Unfortunately, I was correct.

Marseille truly is the 'Brooklyn of France'.

Despite my initial judgement of Marseille I ended up staying just short of a week. I had a feeling that if I stayed longer in Marseille I would find more I liked about it. CouchSurfing made Marseille not only suck less, but not suck. The spectacular people that I met changed my mind about Marseille.

The person who I got closest with in Marseille was my host, Natasha – a Ukrainian firecracker! Despite being a registered sky diver with over 60 jumps, she's incredibly down-to-earth. She was raised in a small town in Eastern Russia, where her dad was fulfilling his military service. When she was nearly ten her family took a seven day train ride on the Trans-Siberian Railway to Kiev I thoroughly enjoyed her company but she was unable to show me around Marseille because of her classes. I knew that if I was going to change my mind about Marseille I needed to meet some locals.

The 'American' dish I made for Natasha. Risotto is kind of American, right?

CouchSurfing to the rescue! I sent out a handful of requests to locals, looking for someone who wanted to play tour guide. People are much more willing to show me around than let me surf their couch. I set a meeting up with this dude Vincent, for the next day at 15.00.

Vincent is a goofy guy. A Parisian in his early 30's, Vincent is always looking to have a good time – we got along like Nutella and crépes. He showed me around Marseille and added dialogue about his personal experiences. We cracked jokes the whole time.

The first day:

Vieux Port
For those who struggle with French, "vieux port" means "old port." The fishermen of Marseille have called this harbor home for centuries. Today it is utilized for angling and recreational purposes. While I was waiting for Vincent there were two guys practicing crewing, gliding up and down the length of the port. When Vincent and I took the free ferry across the port, he told me about a fish market where fishermen sell their catch every morning.

The Veiux Port of Marseille.

The free ferry across the port was fun.

The Panier
The old part of Marseille is referred to as the "Panier," which translates to "basket." The Panier is a maze of twisty narrow streets with beautiful pastel colored buildings. There are a number of museums and churches that are worth seeing. We explored the arched courtyard of La Vielle Charité, along with the Marseille Cathedral.

An archeological site in the middle of a city!

La Vielle Charité in the Panier.

Marseille is the cultural city of 2013 so they're building a lot of culture.

The Forts (Fort St. Nicholas and Fort St. Jean)
Two massive forts stand proudly at the entrance to Marseille's harbor. We explored both of them. At one point, I was telling Vincent about interesting I found these defenses in many European cities – from the walled cities I saw in Italy, like Siena and San Gimignano, to these massive forts in Marseille. Since we have nothing of the sort in the US, I said to Vincent "I can't imagine what it would be like to defend your home from invaders who are trying to kill you." He laughed and told me that these forts were built during the French Revolution to defend the city from its citizens.

Notre Dame de la Garde from the Northern fort.

The weather represents the city well.

A statue of a ship wrecked by waves right by the Southern fort.

The Seaside

We covered a lot of ground on the first day, walking from the Panier to Marseille's South Western shore. As darkness fell I was glad that I had someone to walk with. Later on I found out that this was a wealthy area, in fact we weren't far from Vincent's new apartment. Walking along the sea was a pleasure, hearing the waves bash against the rocks.

Marseille from a distance.

A war memorial arch along the seaside.

I loved these lights. It felt like another town.

Later that night, Natasha tried to teach me the Ukrainian alphabet but I learned more about her culture through her cooking. If Ukrainians' culture is as good as their food, I can't wait to visit. Experiencing meals from different countries has been one of my favorite parts about traveling. Trying to think of 'authentic American food' is too difficult so I came up with a fun idea. For every new host, I will cook a meal that my last host cooked for me. For example, Yves taught me how to cook risotto, so I made risotto for Natasha, Natasha taught me how to cook borscht, so someone lucky in Montpellier will get to enjoy it also. I think this concept is truly American. Just wait for the cook book!

Her borscht was commu-tastic!

Day 2:

The Fish Market
Marseille's daily fish market is open at 8 AM, by the Vieux Port. The fishermen work in small boats with only one or two people and then sell their own fish. Rather romantic given the unsustainable state of the world's fishing industry. Vincent told me about an old dude that's famous for selling dried seahorses and small shells for luck. I guess he was asleep because I didn't see him!

Wake up! It's time to go to the fish market!

Back to work you scallywags!

"Help me Obi Wan Kenobi, you're my only hope!"

Notre Dame de la Garde
Only two months into my trip and I've already seen more churches than I can keep track of, but I will remember Marseille's Notre Dame de la Garde. Built at the peak of a ridiculously high hill, it was an observation point to help keep fishermen safe.

A church with a purpose!

Baby Jesus wants a high-five!

Notre Dame's gorgeous interior.

The walls are covered with paintings of ships at sea.

The virgin and baby are covered in silver.

An alter outside – how could I resist?

Nutella and crépes.

Return to the Sea
The second day that I hung out with Vincent, we returned to the seaside. We walked down on the rocks, and got our shoes soaked by a few waves. Seeing the sun set over the sea was insanely beautiful. I've never seen any interaction between the stars and large bodies of water before but now I want more!

The sea was intense. I love water.

L'escalier de la mort!

Graffiti can be fun.

Pensive.

My first sunset over the sea.

Enthröpy
Later that night we went to a club that Vincent had been talking about all day. His promotions of a "heavy metal bar" weren't appealing but I was excited anyway. Four of us from the college, and four local Couchsurfers lined up at the door of a non-descript building. No signs, nothing – it looked like an abandoned house. The door opened and one by one we were let into a small vestibule where a woman was collecting money, handing out membership cards, and typing names into a computer. We both had a good laugh when I told her my last name was "Connard." When 50 people packed into the small club, it was like a sauna. Thankfully tonight was Salsa night. Vincent taught me the basic Salsa step and we all had a blast dancing the night away!

Marseille is a dirty mess, but I had a blast when I was there – thanks to everyone that I met. The city definitely grew on me, and the grime became more of a unique characteristic than a nuisance. I recommend Marseille. It is truly one of a kind. I had a wonderful start to my week, but the best experience was yet to come... I put a CS group together to explore the Calanques the next day...

Au revoir!

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Day 56: Return to Casino Royale

Dear Moneypenny,

I'm enjoying my time off in the French Riviera. One would think that with a record like mine I would get some appreciation around here. Would you believe this is the first uninterrupted vacation time I've had in 8 years? I think it's time to request a transfer. Q has notified me of a new hypnosis device he's working on to alter people's minds. Perhaps I will use this to increase my future vacation time.

Blending in as a civilian hasn't been easy. Dr. Proctor's intensively expensive plastic surgery procedure has proved worth while. Not only has it improved my looks but the Russians have yet to discover my new identity. To be absolutely sure my cover isn't blown I've buzzed my hair (which had gotten rather long while I was spelunking Thailand's volcanos).

With my new haircut and surgery I was undetectable!

Revisiting Monaco as a civilian has been less stressful but not as luxurious. The bus ride from Nice was humbling. I met some new acquaintances whom I spied on for the entire day. They were friendly but I believe they were double agents for the Chinese government. Their cover story was weak – the classic 'students traveling around Europe'. One of them was enrolled in a university in Spain for electrical engineering. The other one studied literary analysis and was only visiting Europe. Literary analysis sounded so dry I almost believed her. She also carried a camera – clearly gathering information for her government. I have no doubt if we ran background checks we would uncover the truth. Regardless, spending time with them was entertaining.

A Nice way to start the day.

We walked all over the city. Seeing it by foot was less fun than via Aston Marton but I didn't want to attract attention. Car chases are not conducive to relaxation. Additionally, walking gave us the opportunity to see the city better. During my visit 5 years ago, I didn't have time to walk around.

The ports and buildings were like peanut butter and jelly.

I've stayed in nicer.

I don't go to church.

Under construction

The yachts of Monaco.

The buildings were beautiful pastel colors and the views from the cliffs overlooking the harbors and sea were stunning. A brochure informed us about the changing of the guard so we weaved our way from the bus stop to the palace.

Unique colors.

Crowded streets near the palace with Monaco's flag.

A fresh coat.

Watching the changing of the guard was fascinating. We had to wait in a large crowd of people for nearly half an hour before the procession began. In terms of security, we have nothing to learn from the Monaco Palace guards. I easily spotted all their weak points. Infiltration would be easy.

Unfortunately, the queen didn't recognize me.

Spies can always sweet talk someone into taking a photo.

Continuing our walk, I enjoed having time to watch the yachts bob in the harbor instead of rigging them with explosives. The size of these yachts is surprising. While they're nothing compared to the craft I've piloted over the years, these rich civilians are able to afford some advanced gadgetry.

Cactus and boat.

When I retire I will buy a yacht and travel the world.

This yacht was garnished with a jet ski, and Segway transportation devices.

I park my cars on my yacht.

Standing in front of the Monte Carlo casino flooded me with fuzzy memories of my many nights spent there. I attempted entry but I was refused. Can you believe it? I suppose plastic surgery has its advantages and disadvantages. Due to all the martinis I previously enjoyed there, I nearly forgot what the casino looked like. It was beautiful. I was surprised there was only one Ferarri parked out front.

The infamous Monte Carlo Casino.

Even though it wasn't officially open it was still bustling with people.

I drive these all the time.

The diamonds must give this spying device additional durability.

My vacation to Monaco and Monte Carlo was short but fun. Next time I return it will be in a suit because the city isn't the same without a bout of gambling in the casino. I can't wait till Q finishes that hypno-disk. I look forward to more civilian living!

Fondly,
-James