Day 42: No Place Like Home

There's a chill in the air, everyone is stressed out, and you're still buying gifts. That's right folks – it's that time of year. Merry Christmas.

My favorite time of the year. I love Christmas! However, this year is a little different. Experiencing Europe at this time of year has been a treat. I've seen the humble decorations of San Gimignano to the grandiose tree in Milan. Being separated from friends and family for the past month and a half has been difficult, but the season shifted my emotions into overdrive. This is my first Christmas away from home and the only way I can reconcile my feelings is to write. Lace up your snow boots because you're about to be knee deep in emotional slush.

Siena was home to my favorite Christmas tree.

'Twas the night before Christmas and I was in the kitchen. Flour. Red hots. Gingerbread. As usual I was behind schedule, working frantically like some underpaid immigrant worker to transform a few basic ingredients into scrumptious shapes. Another year slaving away making gingerbread cookies for my closest friends. Making these cookies has become a sort of self imposed tradition. For the past five years I've made a quadruple batch of these cookies in a last-minute, twelve-hour baking marathon. On Christmas day my hard work has always been rewarded as I deliver plates of cookies to friends. Spending time at each house, chatting and catching up.

The Santa Croce Christmas market in Florence.

But this year is different. While I'm sure my parent's kitchens are far from tranquil this holiday season, I miss contributing to the chaos. This is the first year in the past five that I haven't made cookies. I think it's more upsetting for me than my friends (though maybe not, because my cookies are A+ amazing). I miss giving my gorillas red hots for eyes and watching them bubble while in the oven.

Stellar stars from a booth in Florence's Christmas market.

All of this nostalgia from my past is colliding with my unknown future and making a me an emotional mess. On one hand I miss my friends and family more than ever. On the other hand, I am incredibly lucky, traveling Europe for 10 months. I am feeling rather mixed up. The result of this collision is a sort of mental and emotional train wreck that has me thinking more deeply about Christmas than ever before.

Practical and hilarious street decorations in Milan.

Considering what Christmas means to me has constipated my brain. While I won't continue with that analogy, a few thoughts have dribbled out.

Family: Every year my family gets together and has a huge dinner. Fart jokes run late into the night. Pictionary has been the board game of choice for years. You would think Pratt would have made me the MVP but they couldn't prepare me for stress like this!

The Tree: Real or bust. Ever since I was little I loved decorating the tree. Even after getting a pickle, my favorite ornament is a little model of the Starship Enterprise. It plugs into one of the light sockets and flashes... "Beam me home!"

Food: Call me biased, but my family makes the best food. I already missed Aunt Jo's cherry pie for Thanksgiving and now the stakes are higher. Not only will I miss the pie but my grammy's authentic Swedish peppakakor cookies. Mail some – seriously!

Presents: Opening the presents is a ritual. When I was young I would wake my parents up at 6 am, practically rabid. I needed my presents, man. But in recent years buying the presents has surpassed opening. Maybe there's something to this giving thing.

The Chauction: Simply the best time that ever existed among a group of friends. The Chauction is an annual Chinese Auction that turns into a sloppy fight to the death over a mountain of toys for 9 year olds. I will miss it dearly.

Cookie Delivery: I already described my annual kitchen disaster. Delivering cookies to my friends is something I look forward to all year because not only do I get to catch up with my friends, but I bake them with Mom.

Going to Church: I have a long post to write about my search for God but I usually don't enjoy attending church. I make an exception once a year and go to the Christmas service. What can I say, I'm a sucker for candles and handbell choirs.

The quaint decorations of San Gimignano.

After writing that I'm not sure if I feel relieved or worse. Family and friends are so important to me throughout the holidays. Traveling has made me realize that I don't spend enough time with family or friends. That's going to change when I come back from Europe. After seeing how close families are on the other side of the Atlantic, I have a lot of love to bring home. Spending time with my family at Christmas and during other holidays is always a highlight of my year so I don't understand why I don't do it more often.

There's no place like home for the holidays but I've got my family in my heart and I'm carrying them with me. Here's a napkin, blow your nose.

Spectacular candies from a Christmas market in Bologna.

Much of the appeal for Christmas comes from traditions. Repeating the same rituals every year creates a warm, comfortable environment. My current situation is quite the opposite. I am separated from my traditions. I have no idea what I'll be doing for Christmas but I'm optimistic nonetheless.

Snowflakes decorating a storefront in Venice.

This Christmas I'm focusing on everything that I have to be thankful for. Traveling's challenges have made me grow and become more aware of what I have and what I do not. Thusly, I am in a better position than ever before to be thankful. I am thankful for the opportunity to travel. I am thankful for the roof over my head. I am thankful that I'm not freezing in a barn somewhere with a bunch of goats, wise men, and babies.

Milan's beautiful tree and duomo.

I've only got one present this year. By some chance I lucked into the most generous family on the planet. I'm staying with my host from Geneva's mom in Vevey. She bought me a Christmas present. I have no idea what it is but there are some chocolates, a card, and a gift. I wonder if she has any idea how much this means to me. It's interesting how not having any other presents makes you appreciate what you've got. When I was little I'd give my parents mile-long lists. Now, a stranger has touched my heart with one gift. This relates to a broader concept I'm learning about of happily receiving what's given to you and not asking for more.

My only Christmas present.

This Christmas will be unlike any other. I won't be opening any mountains of gifts, seeing my family, or delivering gingerbread to my friends. After writing this post, I feel like a little kid – staying up late on Christmas Eve, unable to sleep because he's so excited. But I'm a big kid, and I'm excited for different reasons. I'm excited because I'm learning about Christmas and myself. I'm excited because I have so much to be thankful for. I am excited because I'm all alone in a new place. I'm excited because it's supposed to snow in Switzerland on the 24th. I'm excited because I'm accepting PayPal.

Joyoux Noël!

PS: everyone that comments on this will get a postcard.

Please email me your address.

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Day 23: Italy's Hill Towns – Siena and San Gimignano

Thanks to a Western Union transfer from Dad, I had some funds to go and see Siena and San Gimignano. I spent the past three days on my feet. I feel like I've done enough walking for a lifetime. I couldn't be happier to lay in bed and tell you all about it. So go get yourself a hot pocket and hunker down around the fire.

The night before I left for Siena I joined my Florentine friend Paolo for some authentic Florentine aperitif. Over a Negroni he gave me the scoop on Siena. Siena is comprised of 17 contradas. The contradas were formed during the middle ages. They're groups of families that came together to defend the city. Members of a contrada are bound together for life. Babies are baptized twice; once at the church and at their contradas' fountain. For most of the year the contradas live harmoniously, but twice a year, il Palio drives them into a frenzy. Il Palio is a horse race that has taken place in Piazza Del Campo every July 16th and August 2nd, since the middle ages. Twice a year tensions between the contradas surge. Paolo made it sound like a scary place to be! The town is obsessed with this horse race.

Twice a year Il Campo explodes with people for Il Palio.

Siena greeted me with open arms and open skies. Despite trying to drown me, it was surreal to see one of Italy's great hill towns. I got the full impact because my camp site was at the bottom of the hill! The city walls and gates were sites to behold, but they merely acted as wrapping paper for the treasures within.

Siena's northern gate.

I loved the bright colors against the grey sky.

On the second day, my mission was simple, be a sponge (not for rain). I wandered aimlessly around the city and enjoyed the hills, sights, and people. My friend Sarah spent a period of time in Siena and gave me the inside scoop with this delightful Google Map! Climbing the hill made me hungry so I made a bee line for the kabob place she recommended.

Sarah's favorite kabob place.

A most delicious pollo kabob!

After a stellar chicken kabob and coke I chanced upon this beautiful view of the city. It was pretty cloudy so I waited for the sun.

My patience was rewarded!

Holy panorama Batman! Click to enlarge.

In my search for the best view in Siena, I found the Duomo. It hadn't dawned on me that hill towns are difficult to photograph because they're usually the highest thing around. My only hope was to get on top of something tall in the town. Once again, the Duomo did the trick!. Despite the steep €10 price, this was a once in a lifetime opportunity so I shelled out the cash. I got access to the inside of the Duomo, the museum, something else, and the panorama. The panorama is all I cared about. As soon as the ticket was in my hand I ran up the circular steps to the top of the panorama.

Duomo di Siena. Magnifico!

The unfinished addition to the Duomo. The panorama on the right.

Passing someone on these stairs was interesting.

Outstanding view. Worth every euro penny.

Top of the Torre del Mangia.

All of Siena. Click to enlarge.

The Duomo in Siena is fascinating because the church is unfinished. The current structure is finished but during the 14th century the Sienese were building a massive addition, which would have transformed this Duomo into the largest cathedral anywhere. The church that's there now was going to be the transept of the new church. Construction was halted with the onslaught of the Black Death around 1350. The plague hit Siena especially hard, killing most of the population. Today the addition makes for interesting conversation and the best photo opportunity in all of Siena.

Once it got dark Siena showed another side of itself. It was comforting to see Christmas decorations in Europe. It made me feel like I'm back in NYC. The Piazza Del Campo was decked and all the streets had various kinds of lights. There were shimmering snowflakes, glowing globes, and tantalizing trees. Bella!

Siena's main tree, off of Via Binchi de Sopra.

Another tree. Loved the light on top.

The Palazzo Pubblico decked with holiday cheer.

On the panorama both of my camera batteries died. When I got back to camp it was time to charge up and make an online appearance to assure everyone I wasn't dead. The only place I could use the camp's internet was under an awning. It was raining and a sweltering 6º. Coincidentally, when my time ran out I could no longer feel my feet, so I headed into the bathrooms where I hoped to use the outlet and lay on the radiant heat floor like a lizard. At one point, another camper came into the bathroom. I can only imagine what he thought, seeing me sitting on the floor with my shoes off, laptop and camera all plugged in. "Ciao!"

Sleeping felt good. I would need it. Tomorrow I was headed to San Gimignano, another hill town. I wouldn't have long to explore, thanks to daylight savings time, especially with a full pack.

While checking out the next morning, I learned an important lesson. When an Italian tells you something is "free" what they really mean is "You'll pay later." Although I had to pay for my accommodations, camping was still cheaper than a hostel.

Finding the bus that went to San Gimignano was a hassle. Of course it couldn't have left from the train station at the bottom of the hill. Of course the 'help' at the station couldn't mark where the bus station was in town. Thanks! Relieved and out of breath, I found the bus station in the middle of town. Of course the train wasn't leaving when I thought. I had about an hour. Since my camera batteries died before I got inside the Duomo yesterday, I hurried over to the other side of town for a quick peek!

Duomo di Siena.

Once I was on the bus I was psyched to sit for an hour! The bus ride to San Gimignano was amazing. Despite some anxiety about getting off at the right place, once I saw the city's famous towers excitement swelled inside of me.

Off to San Gimignano!

What a magnificent bus ride.

The towers of San Gimignano from afar.

San Gimignano is known for its towers. Towers were a common sight in the hill towns of medieval Italy. They were status symbols for the rich. The richer you were, the taller a tower you could build. Towers were expensive because they required thick walls to support their height. This silent fiscal competition between the aristocrats resulted in some breathtaking skylines. These towers are kind of like the skyscrapers of old. I wish I could have explored inside one. I enjoyed imagining what living in a tower would have been like. They didn't have a lot of windows but I'm sure the view from the top was all worth it. There wasn't any Duomo that they could pay €10 to get on top of.

City wall. Birds loved the towers.

Main strip.

One of the many towers.

A main square.

The bus arrived around 14:30 so I had about two and a half hours to see the entire city before it got dark. Even though San Gimignano is small, I had to hoof it. I zoomed down the main street, snapping pictures like a super tourist. Zipping around the small streets, I quickly got lost and found myself outside of the city wall. A wall of olive trees to my left and stone to my right I continued along the wall and happened upon a way to get on top of the wall. Amazing!

Outside of the city wall, surrounding countryside.

On top of the city wall!

San Gimignano framed by olive trees.

What a guy!

San Gimignano panorama. Click to enlarge.

I wanted to stay longer in San Gimignano but there wasn't much left for me to do. No CouchSurfers to hang out with. I got on a bus headed to Florence. Sitting felt amazing. I was dead tired. I've finally learned to spell and pronounce San Gimignano, though after climbing its hills with full pack I found myself at a loss for words.

After three days away, as the bus crossed the Arno I was filled with joy. What a pleasure to be back in Florence. It's funny how quickly someplace new can feel so much like home.

My last night in Florence. Ciao bella :)

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Day 21: Deep Thoughts from Siena

Today I arrived in Siena! Then I realized that I didn't have a place to stay – nice!

After a torturous game of find the internet, and a little help from HostelWorld I found a hostel. Casa di Alfredo… Score! Despite my new surroundings, I honed in on its location. Somehow I wasn't surprised when there was no one there to book me a room. I started getting flashbacks of Cinque Terre. I laughed to myself as I followed the 'campsite' signs.

As I was walking down the hill that Siena is built upon, Tuscany was hit by a monsoon. Despite my hat's mojo, it did little to protect me from the aquatic onslaught. Soaked to the bone, I drudged up the hill towards the campsite. Once there wasn't a dry spot left on me, the rain stopped. I turned to my right and low and behold… DOUBLE RAINBOW! Instead of crying and singing a song I laughed more. Cool beans. This was hands down one of the most beautiful rainbows I've ever seen. Bellissimo! Suddenly, being soaked wasn't so bad.

The second double rainbow I've seen. The first was in Colorado.

All of this rain and reward got me to thinking. Planning ahead definitely makes your life easier but also less interesting.

For me, best part about traveling is also the most difficult. Being pulled in every direction. Growing.

Growing is difficult. Babies cry when their teeth are growing in. Teenagers get moody and buy studded belts from Hot Topic. Newbie travelers get soaked in the rain. Thankfully, traveling results in some sweet stories. I'm not sure if stories are better than teeth, but they sure beat Hot Topic.

Every time I figure out a system that works, a new problem comes up. As soon as I make connections in a city, the wind blows me somewhere else. I didn't realize how comfortable I'd become in Florence, though I was quickly reminded when I got off the train today in Siena.

Unfortunately, problems and struggle are the only way I grow. While struggling sucks pretty bad in the present, growth that results feels great in the future. The more difficult the problem, the more satisfying the solution. Perhaps in the stories you have to tell your friends. Perhaps in a new skill learned, or a swanky way to pick up chicks.

I'm learning so many things at once. I often feel overloaded. Perhaps Pratt was good for something after all. My drawing teacher freshman year told us "An artist must be comfortable in uncomfortable situations." It's like learning to walk all over again, because my platforms are constantly changing. It's something that I've been through all my life, especially through college. Moving five times in one summer was absurd. I made a lot of mistakes along the way, but, I learned everything from responsibility to how to live with a 47 year old child. I'm finding similar difficulties in traveling. Life is full of problems!

When I'm feeling overloaded (or soaked) solace is easy to find. Whenever I am stressed I have my entire past to stand on. I've got the strength of my past experiences, family, and friends. It's difficult not being in as close touch with my family and friends. But these times apart make me cherish our time together. Phone calls and post cards go a long way.

I've also been meditating and learning to follow my heart (and the universe!). Despite getting soaked in the rain, if I had been anywhere else I would have missed that beautiful rainbow today. The more I pay attention, the more synchronicities I notice. That's a whole other post!

I can always go back to what I've done before. While it may take me some time to readjust, I know I can do it. That's pretty profound. By traveling and exposing myself to new circumstances I'm expanding my base faster than ever before. By acknowledging how much I've grown, I enable myself to better cope with future growth.

I got the "extra special" Ross price – FREE!

I could live in my tent forever.

Talk about satisfying solutions. Wet clothes in between the tent and fly.

Anything free makes me happy.

Dinners that are €28 don't make me happy.

Thanks to a free camp site at Camping Calleverde Siena I'm enjoying my first warm meal in a week at the only restaurant where I can find internet. With my computer as my date, ya'll better enjoy this article. I could have used this time to woo an Italian babe. That's all I need – more problems. You know what? Bring it on. Too bad there's not a teething ring for travelers.