Day 47: A Backpacker's Christmas in Vevey

Merry Christmas and happy holidays from your favorite backpacking blogger.

I'm sure the absence of my Monday and Wednesday entries caused a great deal of confusion and emotional turmoil for many of you. I was undergoing many challenges myself. I assure you that the challenges I faced outmatched any lack-of-post stress you may have felt. Anyway, that's a story for another time (tomorrow).

The mountain I climbed, fog free.

In a previous blarticle I reconciled my feelings concerning this holiday season through writing. This did wonders to calm me down. Throughout my schooling I wrote piles of essays but writing for myself has made me realize how comforting writing can be. Kate Quarfordt, my client, repeated to me a quote from one of her students which hits the nail on the head. "I write to figure out what the hell I think I mean." -Chris Moncrief

Headed up the hill.

A prime example of Swiss architecture.

These must be rather old.

The hills were a patchwork of vineyards.

Amidst all this tinsled emotion, how did I actually spend my holiday? As with any good Christmas story, it begins on Christmas eve.

I'm not sure why Christmas is so disruptive to my sleep pattern. I spent this Christmas eve the same way I do most every other year – awake. Presents have fueled my insomnia in years past but as I only had one present this year something else was keeping me up. I couldn't stop thinking about how I was going to spend my Christmas. It looked like I was going to spend this Christmas with the cats.

There's wine in them thar hills.

High altitude sheepies.

A cool panorama. Thanks Photoshop.

Ultimately I decided to spend my Christmas day in a relaxed and reflective state. To further my spiritual journey I was going to fast for the whole day. Since I have been meditating daily for the past few months, I planned to meditate for a total of two hours, divided into six twenty minute sections. To top it off I was going to write postcards to a handful of my best friends. That seemed like a good plan to me. Fast, meditate, appreciate. Right before I fell asleep I made one Christmas wish, "Go away, fog!"

The Swiss flag, flying high above the town.

For me, the true spirit of Christmas is sleeping in. Waking up at 11 was wonderful (so much for waking up at 7). Bleary eyed and crusty, I wandered out into the living room, rubbing my face. When I opened my eyes and looked out the window I was psyched! The ground was carpeted in a luxurious coating of powder. Though white Christmases are probably common in Switzerland, it was special for me. Even better than the snow the fog cleared! My wish came true. The past two days the fog was so thick that it was impossible to see the other side of the lake. To make the most of the weather, I immediately decided to climb a nearby mountain and experience a view I craved for days.

The perfect date.

Street signs never fail to make awesome photos.

Climbing a mountain without breakfast was a bummer. I would have liked a big plate of ham and eggs, hash browns, with buttery pancakes smothered in warm blueberry syrup, washed down with a gallon of orange juice. Christmas is the season to get fat. But if I couldn't eat my family's food, I wouldn't eat at all – so, I had some water. Sebastian inspired my fast with his 'way more intense' 10 day long water-only fast. Having never fasted before I was interested to see how it would make me feel and how difficult it would be.

"What's next, mom?"

A lonely sled.

A lonely burro.

Before setting out for the mountain I enjoyed two meditation sessions. I would tell you about them but to put them into words would do them and myself an injustice.

Feeling centered, bundled up, and with camera in hand, I set out. The climb wasn't intense but there was snow all over the place. It took me about two hours to reach the top, taking plenty (350) photos along the way. I enjoyed myself walking in silence through the streets that wound up the mountain. As I got higher the view of Vevey and Lac Léman got more and more beautiful. I thought the top would be the ultimate view, but I ended up at some point where trees blocked most of the village. The views from about 3/4 of the way up the mountain were the best.

Here is the church, there is the steeple.

Seems like a nice place to live to me.

Belle.

On my way down I did a bit of off-roading. I put my boots to the test as I scaled down the steep hills of the vineyards. I'm happy to report that my feet stayed dry and I didn't slip and die. Passing through one vineyard I saw some grapes on one of the vines. These must have been grapes for ice wine because I ate them and they were the sweetest grapes that I've ever tasted. Then I remembered I was fasting. Oops!

Another post card.

The view from the top.

Vevey from far away.

In years past, making and delivering gingerbread has been my personal Christmas tradition. I usually choose so many friends to give cookies to that I end up making a huge batch so there's enough to go around. This year the situation was more extreme. Traveling has put pressure on me to stay in touch with my friends and family. One of my favorite parts about Christmas is connecting with old friends and checking in on everyone that I care about. This year I have a lot of people I care about. I started writing names down and my list grew and grew. When I started writing the post cards I realized I forgot a few people so I added them. Rinse and repeat a few times and my list grew to 40 people. Despite my best efforts, there was no way that I could finish all of these in one night.

Aaaahhhh, the cold!

I saw this shot in my mind's eye and it took me a while to find it.

What a charming town.

When 4:30 rolled around I couldn't keep my eyes open any longer. If you got a post card and couldn't read it, sorry. I was ready to pass out. I brushed my teeth and was ready to crash when I remembered my present. I felt like my mom. She waits to open her presents so she can enjoy them for longer. I picked it up. It felt like a book. What I thought were chocolates on top turned out to be a beautiful candle. Somewhat reluctantly I peeled back the paper. A constructible paper manger scene. Not something I expected. Oddly enough I enjoyed this gift more when it was wrapped. It didn't matter what it was, just that it was a gift. Opening it spoiled the surprise. The symbolic value of this gift was the most important.

Back on the lake side, I was ready to go back inside.

Merry Christmas, sea gulls.

More than anything, spending this Christmas separated from my traditions made me reevaluate what Christmas means to me. I figured out how to make my Christmas special by appreciating everything I had. Although I only had one gift, it was the first gift that I enjoyed more while it was wrapped. Although I didn't meditate for two hours, this was the most that I've ever meditated in one day. Although I ate some grapes and Christmas cookies, this was the first fast that I've ever attempted. Although I didn't get the best photos from the top of the mountain, I got some amazing ones along the way. Although I couldn't write 40 post cards in one day, I hope I made a few of my friends smile. This may not have been the best Christmas but I sure learned a lot. I can't wait to bake cookies next year.

Au revior!

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Day 42: No Place Like Home

There's a chill in the air, everyone is stressed out, and you're still buying gifts. That's right folks – it's that time of year. Merry Christmas.

My favorite time of the year. I love Christmas! However, this year is a little different. Experiencing Europe at this time of year has been a treat. I've seen the humble decorations of San Gimignano to the grandiose tree in Milan. Being separated from friends and family for the past month and a half has been difficult, but the season shifted my emotions into overdrive. This is my first Christmas away from home and the only way I can reconcile my feelings is to write. Lace up your snow boots because you're about to be knee deep in emotional slush.

Siena was home to my favorite Christmas tree.

'Twas the night before Christmas and I was in the kitchen. Flour. Red hots. Gingerbread. As usual I was behind schedule, working frantically like some underpaid immigrant worker to transform a few basic ingredients into scrumptious shapes. Another year slaving away making gingerbread cookies for my closest friends. Making these cookies has become a sort of self imposed tradition. For the past five years I've made a quadruple batch of these cookies in a last-minute, twelve-hour baking marathon. On Christmas day my hard work has always been rewarded as I deliver plates of cookies to friends. Spending time at each house, chatting and catching up.

The Santa Croce Christmas market in Florence.

But this year is different. While I'm sure my parent's kitchens are far from tranquil this holiday season, I miss contributing to the chaos. This is the first year in the past five that I haven't made cookies. I think it's more upsetting for me than my friends (though maybe not, because my cookies are A+ amazing). I miss giving my gorillas red hots for eyes and watching them bubble while in the oven.

Stellar stars from a booth in Florence's Christmas market.

All of this nostalgia from my past is colliding with my unknown future and making a me an emotional mess. On one hand I miss my friends and family more than ever. On the other hand, I am incredibly lucky, traveling Europe for 10 months. I am feeling rather mixed up. The result of this collision is a sort of mental and emotional train wreck that has me thinking more deeply about Christmas than ever before.

Practical and hilarious street decorations in Milan.

Considering what Christmas means to me has constipated my brain. While I won't continue with that analogy, a few thoughts have dribbled out.

Family: Every year my family gets together and has a huge dinner. Fart jokes run late into the night. Pictionary has been the board game of choice for years. You would think Pratt would have made me the MVP but they couldn't prepare me for stress like this!

The Tree: Real or bust. Ever since I was little I loved decorating the tree. Even after getting a pickle, my favorite ornament is a little model of the Starship Enterprise. It plugs into one of the light sockets and flashes... "Beam me home!"

Food: Call me biased, but my family makes the best food. I already missed Aunt Jo's cherry pie for Thanksgiving and now the stakes are higher. Not only will I miss the pie but my grammy's authentic Swedish peppakakor cookies. Mail some – seriously!

Presents: Opening the presents is a ritual. When I was young I would wake my parents up at 6 am, practically rabid. I needed my presents, man. But in recent years buying the presents has surpassed opening. Maybe there's something to this giving thing.

The Chauction: Simply the best time that ever existed among a group of friends. The Chauction is an annual Chinese Auction that turns into a sloppy fight to the death over a mountain of toys for 9 year olds. I will miss it dearly.

Cookie Delivery: I already described my annual kitchen disaster. Delivering cookies to my friends is something I look forward to all year because not only do I get to catch up with my friends, but I bake them with Mom.

Going to Church: I have a long post to write about my search for God but I usually don't enjoy attending church. I make an exception once a year and go to the Christmas service. What can I say, I'm a sucker for candles and handbell choirs.

The quaint decorations of San Gimignano.

After writing that I'm not sure if I feel relieved or worse. Family and friends are so important to me throughout the holidays. Traveling has made me realize that I don't spend enough time with family or friends. That's going to change when I come back from Europe. After seeing how close families are on the other side of the Atlantic, I have a lot of love to bring home. Spending time with my family at Christmas and during other holidays is always a highlight of my year so I don't understand why I don't do it more often.

There's no place like home for the holidays but I've got my family in my heart and I'm carrying them with me. Here's a napkin, blow your nose.

Spectacular candies from a Christmas market in Bologna.

Much of the appeal for Christmas comes from traditions. Repeating the same rituals every year creates a warm, comfortable environment. My current situation is quite the opposite. I am separated from my traditions. I have no idea what I'll be doing for Christmas but I'm optimistic nonetheless.

Snowflakes decorating a storefront in Venice.

This Christmas I'm focusing on everything that I have to be thankful for. Traveling's challenges have made me grow and become more aware of what I have and what I do not. Thusly, I am in a better position than ever before to be thankful. I am thankful for the opportunity to travel. I am thankful for the roof over my head. I am thankful that I'm not freezing in a barn somewhere with a bunch of goats, wise men, and babies.

Milan's beautiful tree and duomo.

I've only got one present this year. By some chance I lucked into the most generous family on the planet. I'm staying with my host from Geneva's mom in Vevey. She bought me a Christmas present. I have no idea what it is but there are some chocolates, a card, and a gift. I wonder if she has any idea how much this means to me. It's interesting how not having any other presents makes you appreciate what you've got. When I was little I'd give my parents mile-long lists. Now, a stranger has touched my heart with one gift. This relates to a broader concept I'm learning about of happily receiving what's given to you and not asking for more.

My only Christmas present.

This Christmas will be unlike any other. I won't be opening any mountains of gifts, seeing my family, or delivering gingerbread to my friends. After writing this post, I feel like a little kid – staying up late on Christmas Eve, unable to sleep because he's so excited. But I'm a big kid, and I'm excited for different reasons. I'm excited because I'm learning about Christmas and myself. I'm excited because I have so much to be thankful for. I am excited because I'm all alone in a new place. I'm excited because it's supposed to snow in Switzerland on the 24th. I'm excited because I'm accepting PayPal.

Joyoux Noël!

PS: everyone that comments on this will get a postcard.

Please email me your address.

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