I don't know exactly why but arriving in a new country is always exhilarating. Exhausted after my three day hitch hiking extravaganza, as I emerged from the subway I felt anew. The warmth of Barcelona flowed into me. Buildings towered over me, people all over the place yammering in Catalan, complete entropy. I fell in love with this city immediately. I'll never forget the feeling I got when I crossed the first big street. The pedestrian light turned green and a flood of people charged towards me. I couldn't help but smile, I felt like I was back in Manhattan.
Barcelona as seen from Park Güell!
From the grandeur of Gaudi to its beautiful beaches, Barcelona is a metropolitan paradise. Walking aimlessly through the streets is a whirlwind of trendy stores, historic buildings, fresh markets, profuse parks, tantalizing tapas, lush languages and indians quacking away on various voice changing gizmos. Barcelona was one hell of an introduction to Spain.
One of my favorite pictures I've ever taken.
Of the ten days that I spent in Barcelona, I was hosted by two people. My first hosts were a pair of girls from Vancouver. They are two incredibly lucky college students studying abroad in Barcelona. We enjoyed a wonderful few days together, cooking, touring around the city, going out and getting sloppy on €1 cava and reveling in the bottle of wine we enjoyed on the beach. Learning about their lives was a treat and speaking English with native speakers was refreshing. They lived in the center of the city so we spent lots of time in the storm.
Myself, my two hosts, and another CouchSurfer from Viena.
My second host, who's extreme generosity I've already described, lived in a suburb of Barcelona called Les Planes. His house was nestled into a hillside and nearly covered with trees. It felt like living in the jungle. Samuel treated myself and his other surfer to a weekend of touring around the city. I am so appreciative of my two hosts because they each allowed me to see a different side of the city. So without further ado, here my ten favorite activities in Barcelona.
Samuel's beautiful living room.
Ross' Backpacker's Barcelona Top 10:
1. Sagrada Familia
Pay to go inside. Go on a weekday early in the morning. I stood at the entrance, unable to move, for at least a minute. Spend a while in the church and watch the light change. I enjoyed reading about his inspiration for the church's architecture in the museum. Perhaps going to see the museum before would be a neat build-up. Either way you're going to freak.
I didn't know that Sagrada Familia is only half finished.
Gaudi was heavily inspired by natural structures.
2. Barcelona's Mar Belle (the beach)
Laying in the sun on one of Barcelona's many beaches is the perfect counter to a long day of city crawling. Despite the time of year, even in February it was 20ºC and warm enough to lay on the beach.
Skinny dipping in the Mediterranean was estaba muy frío!
Nude beaches FTW, you'll have to use your imagination.
3. Plaça del Tibidabo
For the best view of Barcelona take S1 or S2 train to Peu del Funicular. The funicular will bring you to the top of the hill with an amazing view, but take the bus right by the station to get to the Plaça. Besides the best view in the city, there's also a fascinating three-in-one church and a ridiculous amusement park.
The top of the church on Mont Tibidabo.
The holy cobweb.
4. Tapas & Cava
I feel like I've been living like a Spaniard all my life – waking up late, taking naps, and eating a lot. When I discovered tapas I was a little upset I've wasted 22 years of my life without them. They're little snacks of a few flavor packed bites. The girls brought me to a fantastic tapas place called Sagardi. You pick which tapas you'd like and then pay by the number of toothpicks on your plate. For outstanding Moroccan sandwiches check out Bo De B (near Barceloneta). Then head to Can Panixano for cava and more tapas!
The power trio enjoying tapas at Tapa Tapa.
Purple was my theme for tapa selection at Sagardi.
5. Barcelona's Boquaria
Boca means mouth in Spanish. Barcelona's boquaria is not only a feast for all of your senses. Seeing where your meat cut with a bandsaw right in front of you. Feeling the skins of different fruits. Smelling the fresh seafood. Ordering ingredients for my cassoulet in Spanish was a lot of fun. Plus, the food is way better quality and the prices are cheaper than most super markets.
The entrance to Barcelona's boquaria as seen from La Rambla.
This kid reminded me of a younger version of myself.
6. Park Güell
If you only have time to check out one of Barcelona's parks, let it be Park Güell. This park is a masterful marriage of architecture and landscaping. It is home to many pieces from Gaudi and it's packed with people. From the top of the park you have a great view of Barcelona and Sagrada Familia. Take your time walking the twisting paths and do your best to soak up the environment around you.
One of Gaudi's pieces in Park Güell.
The main entrance to Park Güell.
7. La Rambla
I've never seen a street quite like La Rambla before. It's a crazy hodgepodge of tourists, locals, and vendors. It starts in the center of Barcelona at Plaça Catalunia and ends at the beach. It's a hot spot for thieves but don't be deterred. Off of its side streets are some of the best places to eat. Sit on a bench for a while and watch the scene unfold.
This statue is mimicking the famous Italian mime, Jerome Murat.
Some of the statues were really creative.
8. The Stores
Barcelona has some of the coolest stores that I've ever seen. The first place the girls brought me was the Vinçon design store. I was pretty sure I died and went to design heaven. There are tons of other great stores in Barcelona no matter where your interests may lie. Take some time to do plenty of window shopping and buy macarons whenever you get the chance.
Who doesn't want a fish lamp?
Crumpled paper paperweights – a design classic.
9. The Magic Fountain of Montjuïc
Right outside of the España metro stop lies the Palau Nacional and the Magic Fountain of Montjuïc. The combination of these two landmarks in one area is stunning. At night the fountain comes live with impressive displays of water and lights choreographed to music. After the fountain puts you under its spell take a walk up and check out the Palace.
My day trip to Montserrat was one of the many highlights of my time in Barcelona. Only an hour train ride away, trekking around in the nature of Montserrat provided a much needed break from hectic city life. The views from this monastery built into a mountain are breathtaking. Climb to the top instead of taking the funicular!
A mountain goat scared the crap out of me!
An amazing view – I could see Barcelona!
If you go to Barcelona, which I recommend you do, spend a lot of time wandering aimlessly through the streets. A new flavor is brought by each district and they mix together to form an amazing cornucopia that could only be compliments of Barcelona. A few days is not enough to see everything here. Unless you want to be unbearably teased, give yourself at least a week to absorb the city. I spent ten days there and between the people I met and the city itself, I can't wait to return. Viva Barcelona!
I grew up in the middle of a forest on a mountain. I always loved camping and being outside. After spending four years in the industrial jungle of New York City, I fell in love with nature again while living on a farm in Austin, TX. Throughout my travels in Europe, many of my fondest memories took place while I was in nature. Given my positive past experiences, when Samuel, my host in Barcelona, suggested that I go to see Montserrat, a monestery built into the side of a mountain, my shutter finger twitched excitedly.
With my eye pressed up against the lens of Samuel's telescope I saw it. Sure enough, they built that sucker right into the side of the mountain. Even 30km away, from Samuel's living room it looked amazing. I was so hyped to go, but in true Murphy style fog blanketed the next two days. Three days later, I woke up, looked out the window and smiled. Today I was going to Montserrat.
Even before I left I made a bad decision. Sebastian was kind enough to put me in touch with two friends of his who are also designers that live in Barcelona. The day previous, I set up a lunch date at 3 (yes, I was born to live in Spanish time). Naturally, I left late for Montserrat and there was no way I was going to get back by three. I was feeling guilty while waiting for the train. I had no phone so I had no way of contacting them. I desperately asked a dude next to me if I could use his iPhone to send an email. "It only works in Japan." he replied. A few seconds passed and he asked "Where are you from?" Turns out that he and his friend were also going to Montserrat. We talked for the entire train ride and explored the monestery together. They were fascinated with an American that meditates and I was fascinated by Japanese who play baseball.
Arriving at Montserrat VIA train.
One of its many beautiful plazas.
Groovy Japanese dudes.
My writing can't speak to Montserrat's magnificence as well as my pictures but it was breathtaking being up that high. I can't imagine how difficult it was to build a town in such a challenging location. It's not quite alien controversy worthy, but definitely an amazing feat.
We explored for most of the day but when I wanted to hike up to the top we split ways. Thankfully I was able to find a phone and cancel my lunch date. With a lightened mental load, I headed off; onward and upward.
This reminded me of some landscape out of Myst.
Lovin' it.
Spectacular scenery.
As I wheezed up stairs, tackled treacherous trails, and fended off mountain goats, every step was more breathtaking than the last (literally). It took me two hours to reach Montserrat's highest point. While I was standing on top of the mountain, it was right after five and the sunlight candied the mountains. I was so high that I could see for kilometers. Barcelona was faintly visible off in the distance. The light from the setting sun made some killer photos but it also reminded me that it was getting late. I pulled the train schedule from my pocket and nearly had a heart attack. The last train returning to Barcelona left in an hour. Stressing about missing my only way back, I took a last look, shoved my camera into its house, and bolted down the mountain.
Lots of people were out enjoying nature.
There were transitions between rocks and forest on the trails.
Lush forests.
Great place to meditate.
With my bags jumping all over, I navigated the rocky trails at full speed. Huffing and puffing, I got a burst of energy once I could see the monastery. I zipped past this older dude who was wearing a red coat. Finally I came upon the funicular wich chauffeurs people to the top of the hill. I only had 15 minutes left. Unfortunately, the fanicular was closed so I hurried down a nearby trail. As I was coming down the mountain, I saw the man in the red coat about 5 minutes ahead of me. The white rabbit.
I got so close to one I almost wet my pants.
Pretty high, huh?
I gotta dance on every mountain I climb.
I ot back to the monastery right on time but there was no train in sight. It was getting dark and I had no way of getting home. I missed my tent. Sweaty and red faced I approached the white rabbit to ask for a ride. By the luck of the universe, he was headed to Barcelona and spoke a little English. We hiked down to his car and chatted over the hour long car ride. He had been rock climbing for 35 years of his life. The Scorpions blared over the car's stereo.
Returning to the monastery.
I arrived back in Barcelona safe and exhausted. I cannot recommend Montserrat enough. It was a magical experience and one of the highlights of my trip. Too bad I paid for the two-way train ticket.
Adios!
**I still have tons of photos to upload and panoramas to add to this entry.
Over the past few weeks I've become increasingly interested in the reason for my traveling. I decided to travel on a whim. I didn't plan or think about why I was traveling. Everyone travels for different reasons. Some people focus on learning languages or observing cultures while others turn up at every pub crawl they can find. There is no superior reason for travel. As I was curious why I was traveling, I began to think. My reasoning for travel is ultimately selfish. Through traveling I want to come to a better understanding of who I am. So far, traveling has proved to be an excellent method of self discovery. By immersing myself in constantly changing environments, different people, languages, situations, lifestyles, personalities, foods, and music I am able to see what I enjoy and, by comparing these things to myself, chisel away at my personality.
Samuel and I overlooking the city of Barcelona.
I learn about myself from everything around me. Whether a new food with a curious new flavor, observing how someone else operates, or reflecting on why I haven't posted on my blog in the past week. Every day I learn about myself. That is the focus of my travels, and this blog. Ross Roams is a journal of my travels both physical and metaphysical. My travel blog serves as a record of not only where I have been, but how the people, places, and situations have shaped me as a developing person.
"Coffee?"
This past week that I spent in Barcelona I learned more than I could describe or consciously remember. The intimate relationship between host and traveler that is formed by CouchSurfing provides a perfect learning environment. My second host in Barcelona was one of the most generous people that I've ever met. Samuel was born and raised in Columbia. He is an amazing person not only because he is a vascular surgeon, but he has a profound compassion for other people. He was generous to the point where I felt a little guilty. By devoting his entire weekend to showing myself and another surfer around the city and paying for all of our meals he went above and beyond his responsibilities as a host. He taught me that generosity is the ultimate expression of richness.
A delicious meal cooked by Mr. Generosity.
Another surfer who I talked to had recently been to Africa and she told me how the people there were so poor they couldn't afford enough food or water. Even though they didn't have enough for themselves, they share what they had with others. While she was riding a bus someone gave her a banana that probably would have fed them for a whole day. These people understand that the feeling of fullness does not come from food.
He spent his whole weekend showing us the city.
Since I've been meditating I've become much more aware of my feelings and their frequencies. I've noticed that I'm hungry a lot. I could eat all the time and when I eat I usually eat as much as I can. Regardless of the few kilos this has caused me to gain, I'm fascinated by this. Why am I hungry all the time? Why do I never feel full? I haven't discovered the answer but an interesting thing happened a few days ago while I was exploring Montserrat with two new friends. I brought some food for lunch, an apple, bread, and cheese – enough for one. The three of us were hiking and when we stopped to eat I remembered the generosity that Samuel had shown me. Even though I didn't have a lot, instead of eating all of my food myself I shared it with my two new friends. They graciously accepted and the exchange was pleasant. As we ate we smiled and laughed, savoring the few bites that we had. After eating I was overcome by a strange feeling of fullness. The feeling wasn't because I was physically stuffed, but because I was satisfied.
If you go to Spain, eat tapas every day.
Understanding the giving relationship is powerful. It leads to mutually beneficial situations and feeling genuinely good. It's the foundation of CouchSurfing and hitch hiking. Seeing as giving is an interaction between two parties, it is important that both play their roles. The giver must give graciously, unconditionally, and without any expectations. On the opposite end, the receiver must receive graciously, unconditionally, and without any expectations. It's interesting that even though many consider giving and receiving opposite ends of the spectrum, they are the same. With this understanding the joy of exchange both parties feel good. The giver feels good because he empathizes with the receiver and the receiver feels good because he empathizes with the giver.
Ingredients I bought at Barcelona's boqueria for my 'thank you' cassoulet.
Unfortunately, it was not until recently that I understood the benefits of giving. From a young age I remember thinking "It is better to give than receive," was a manipulative ploy by adults. Now that I'm older, like many other proverbs that my parents taught me, I've found this to be true. But why did it take me so long to appreciate something so simple? Regrettably, many of today's societies are based around money. I was raised in a culture where money rules all. Money distorts our understanding of giving because we are so focused on the monetary value of exchange. We buy from shops, look for deals, scrutinize prices, clip coupons. But we don't appreciate giving because we are so money centric. Richness is not a measure of materiality, which is why giving is misunderstood by many people. Proven by initially paradoxical fact that financially poor people give more than the rich.
Two new friends I met on my day trip to Montserrat.
It's taken me all of my life to develop my appreciation for giving and the more I give, the more I grow. Rich is not the one who has more, Samuel's generosity was the manifestation of my learning about giving. When I put this into practice, I found myself in a rare state of mind. I was full.
After three days of hitch hiking, I finally arrived in Barcelona. It was quite a trip. Hitch hiking is the most rewarding method of travel but also the most difficult. Meeting new people is invigorating – a fortuitous union between strangers. Hitch hiking is similar to Couch Surfing in that aspect but it's edgier and more exciting. Luckily, I've only had good experiences.
Barcelona is totally on the way to Madrid... Let's go!
Everyone that has given me a ride has been incredibly generous. One guy even let me stay with him for a night. He lived with his wife in Castelnaudary, a small town near Carcassonne. I made them a beautiful pie that tasted awful. We laughed a lot as we ate it – that was the only way to wash it down. Even the salesman from Monsanto was friendly, though I swear I could see horns sprouting from his forehead.
Sometimes toll booths have beautiful views.
It takes a special type of personality to hitch hike. Sometimes it's difficult to feel optimistic, especially when it's 0ºC and so windy I can barely hold onto my sign. While I was hitch hiking from Perpignan to Barcelona, the graphic designer that took me across the boarder dropped me off near a toll booth that only trucks were coming through. I tried for about 45 minutes to get a lift but I didn't have a good feeling. I ended up asking around at a gas station and found two Frenchmen who were moving to Madrid from Lausanne, Switzerland.
Eddie, will sell anything for the right price.
I learned a lot hitch hiking to Toulouse but this being the longest distance I've hitched yet, I learned a few useful things. Here are some hitch hiking tips that I learned during my three day extravaganza.
My first day I thought that I could make it all the way from Toulouse to Barcelona and stop to see Carcassonne. In reality I didn't even make it to Carcassonne, which is only an hour from Toulouse. My pathetic performance the first day was due to my location. It took me a long time to figure out how to get out of Toulouse and when I did, I ended up on a back road going to Carcassonne. Stick to the highway because that's where you'll find people going long distances. This seems like obvious advice but it's difficult to judge whether to take some rides or not. Even though you'll be closer to your destination, if you're in a good location, it's probably best to stay there. I had great success with hitch hiking near toll booths (peage in French).
Christoph and his wife. Thanks for your generosity!
There's no telling how long hitch hiking is going to take so it's best to not have any plans. The longer the distance the more variability. Because I thought I could make it to Barcelona in one day, I didn't plan any places to stay along the way. If it wasn't for the generosity of people along the way I would have been sleeping in the cold. It's best to have some sleeping arrangements at key stops along the way. At least take the time to look up hostels or send out some couch requests.
The French don't pair cheese and fruit for good reason.
The ride that took me most of the way to Barcelona was headed to Madrid and the highway forked off about 10 minutes away from Barcelona. We stopped for lunch about 30 minutes away and I thought I should just get as close to the city as possible. The problem was I was too close to the city and people were headed to towns other than Barcelona. If you have the choice between being dropped closer or farther from a city, go with the better location instead of trying to get as close as you can.
The castle at Carcassonne was well worth stopping for.
Gas stations are a great alternative to standing on the side of the road. Whether you can't find a good location or no one is picking you up. Try asking around at a gas station. This is also a great alternative for girls because you can be selective. If you do some research before hand you can also look at the location identification numbers on European plates to see where the car is from and ask accordingly.
Viva España!
Hitch hiking is my favorite method of travel. It's exciting because you never know what's going to happen, how long you'll have to wait, who's going to pick you up. For the same reasons, it can also be rather unnerving. It took me eight rides and three days to get from Toulouse to Barcelona. Secretly, I wouldn't have it any other way. Not to mention that I also saved about €70 for a train ticket.
